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We had an 06 on a 24 month lease.

Worst car I've even had in my garage. Making a rather lengthy story short, it was at the dealership *monthly* for either the same issue, or something new. The 2nd or 3rd week we had it, it was back at the dealer. You name it, it went wrong. Small quirky stuff like windows, trim, plastics, electronics, and such, and other things like a tranny, brakes, alternator, new battery (3 of them in 24 months), oil leak(s), etc.

Sexy SUV? (no, it's not a "truck", please don't call it one) yes, for sure, sexy lines, eye catching, popular with The Jones' Club. Relatively functional. Fair amount of space for people piling in and out. Decent on longer road trips, etc. Terrible gas mileage.

Stranded out in the middle of BFE? Been there, done that, got that t-shirt. Twice it left us hanging.

The best was when the anti-theft system *LOCKED* my Mother In-law (hold the laughs, she's a saint) in the car, and then wouldn't unlock it, not with the key, not the key fob, nothing. Apparently it goes into some double deadbolt lock down mode. And wouldn't you guess, the battery dies in the process, so my little mother in law, (standing 4'-nothing) can't roll the [electric] seat back, to get her arm down to the point in which she can pop the hood to get jumper cables connected to it.

We ended up busting the passengers side window out so she could get out of the car. I called the service manager (ended up being good buddies with him for as often as we met) and told him to come get the car. Never drove it (or another) since.

As a result of that event, LR ended up buying us out of the last 2 months on the lease.
Good riddance. It was such as disappointment, as we really were keen on having one, but it was simply one issue after another with it, month after month.

But hey, don't let me get you down on LR. Look at consumer reports. Listen to what Top Gear has to say about them. Check around.

Enjoy whatever you end up with!
 

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Range Rover 4.0/4.6/P38A went overboard in the alarm and security department BUT if you review your manual....the security/central locking portion of the service manual describes a process (known as Emergency Key Access" or EKA for disarming the theft alarm and re-mobilizing the vehicle in the event that the handset fails while the vehicle is in superlocked mode. Each vehicle has a four digit EKA code which is needed for the procedure. The code is entered by turning the key the required number of times in the driver's door lock according to a prescribed sequence...
Unlock once
lock 5 times,
unlock once,
and then lock 5 times.
normal EKA is not applicable to US spec P38A Range Rovers, but the generic "null" code (1515) is used...
 

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I know of many stories on the internet where people have had bad experiences with their RR. And i am sure their are those few vehicles with some major problems.

I've had the old 2008 Supercharged (from new to 12.000 km.) and it was great. I had some problem with the PDC but the dealer fixed it under factory warranty. Service wasn't that expensive - even though it is more than the Germans (Q7/X5 etc.).

I traded in the car for a 2010 RR 5.0 Supercharged - and I already love it.
 

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RR SC best allround suv period.
Had a few of them since they first appeared,never an issue,they just get better and better,btw,they have the best electronics and touch screen as far as 5 years ago,Merc Audi BMW ? in any case they carry 3 year guarantee so most stuff is just replaced at no cost,here's quality for you...
 

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I was a service advisor for a Range Rover dealer and wow the problems they have. If you've had either no issues or just small qwerky astuff then feel privilaged. There is a reason why the are always last or almost every year on any company that rates cars for reliability and problems, CAUSE THEY ARE THE WORST. It will eat batteries like they are nothing also suspension issues along with jusst about everything else on this car acts up. If you buy one of these make sure you have a second vehicle, cause it will be in the shop as much as you drive it and getting parts for it take a while. I always loved the look of them but would never own one after working for them.
 

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If you buy one of these make sure you have a second vehicle, cause it will be in the shop as much as you drive it and getting parts for it take a while.

Ha,Ha, that's why we never go to the dealer...:lol::lol:

You can order parts online cheaper than Dodge parts and have them the next day. Take it to a Independent repair shop and you can get them to fix it right the first time.....Dealers hire technicians with no prior experience and train them as they go, then they just do enough to get you out of their hair...they are required to only do what LR says they can...they have no incentive to really help you out....and they never tell you the truth:.....

LIKE:

a Chevy oil filter is the exact same and can be purchased at autozone for $3. Dealer wants $30

Shocks are only $50-$100 aftermarket...Yes Ford shocks are the exact same, even the air suspension shocks. My dealership wanted $1100 for one and told me it was a 3 week order. You can order online for $50, install it yourself in less then 1 hour. Or go to the Ford dealer and they have it instock for $100, or even go to a Midas shop and when they say "I can't get Land Rover shocks", then ask for a Ford one, they'll have it fixed the same day.

Air Compressors for the suspension, cost $800 at the dealership and take weeks to be ordered, these are "instock" and only $125 at the Ford dealer, even same part number.

For the Air Suspension leaking problems that the dealerships try and fix and keep Failing. pull the crappy rubber O-rings off and go to SCUBA shop and replace with silicone O-Rings, you'll never have a leak again..

The dealership wanted $125 to replace my wiper blades, I got mine at Target "on-sale" for $9 and replaced in the parking lot in 5 minutes....

Use aftermarket parts and once it is fixed, it will stay fixed...stay away from LR parts and especially stay away from the Dealership repair techs. Mine kept blowing out batteries, dealer replaced a few of them under warranty then I replaced the factory one with a $60 PepBoys SALE special and have had no problems for the last few years.:wink:


So far, I have not seen any maintenance or repair that can't be done for the same price as any other vehicle as long as you stay a way from the dealership.


Remember in the UK, these are "work" trucks, everybody has one and their are 1,000s of aftermarket parts. Dirt ass cheap.....:eek:hwell:


Seriously, its just a freaking V8 motor, those $30 ea. Land Rover spark plugs are no different then spark plugs for a Chevy, why would you pay that??????:confused:
 

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89% of all Land Rovers ever produced since 1955 are still on the road today according to statistics...you just HAVE to be motivated to turn a wrench on them yourself every now & then!
 

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89% of all Land Rovers ever produced since 1955 are still on the road today according to statistics...you just HAVE to be motivated to turn a wrench on them yourself every now & then!
Land Rover - Keeping Mechanics in business since 1955!

Sorry- I have no motivation to turn a wrench on a 2 week old $65,000 SUV.
Perhaps my expectations are a tick too high. :eek:hwell:
 

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Circa 2006, (owned by Ford at the time) and qualified for Z-Plan pricing.
IIRC is was 65ish. Today's version, yeah, 80 dimes.

Soooooo many other SUV's for 80 or less.
 

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no, it's not a "truck", please don't call it one
Yes, technically it is...the term "Truck" is based on the frame style and weight in the US, not the body style... the Discovery I-II and LR3-4 and RR-sports are built on truck frames and designated by the DOT as "Truck", this also gives extra TAX breaks for companies using these as well as use for insurance designation. Trust me on this, I make most of money off-road in a Rover and the IRS excepts this as a "Truck". The RR (big one) is not designated as a "Truck" because of frame style and you do not get extra TAX breaks......Thanks to our Government, the more gas my "Company Truck" uses and the heavier it is, the more Tax breaks I get.....:clap::clap:

The weight of a new one is 5,800 lbs..... Mine is 6,948lbs (gear unloaded but with extra skid plates, bumpers, winch, roof racks, etc.) - 7,456lbs (loaded with camping, fishing, hunted gear and other "work" stuff). You can go to a certified truck scale and get a weight card to turn in to the IRS for extra $$$$$$.........."check your state's regs, don't go over the 7,500lb mark or you may need to pay extra state fees".....:wink:
 

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OK, call it what you will, but IMO, if you can't put a sheet of plywood in the back of it, it is *not* a truck. Tax purposes, sure, call it a truck all day long. Functionally, it's not a truck. Again, IMO, YMMV.
 

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The weight of a new one is 5,800 lbs..... Mine is 6,948lbs (gear unloaded but with extra skid plates, bumpers, winch, roof racks, etc.) - 7,456lbs (loaded with camping, fishing, hunted gear and other "work" stuff). You can go to a certified truck scale and get a weight card to turn in to the IRS for extra $$$$$$.........."check your state's regs, don't go over the 7,500lb mark or you may need to pay extra state fees".....:wink:
The IRS maintains a list of qualifying vehicles with GVW in excess of 6,000 lbs. That is the requirement for the Section 179 deduction. If you want to argue with them over qualifying a vehicle that isn't on the list, have fun with that. It is much easier to just buy one on the list. Also sucks now that the qualifying max is $25,000 for the accelerated depreciation. Make sure you speak with your tax adviser regarding filing requirements for the five years after purchase. IIRC, you only need 50%+ business use for years 2-5, but you have to track and submit for it, or you face recapture.
 

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The Range broke my heart.

I had an 08' and loved the look and drive but after repeated problems...electrical, transmission...I finally got rid of the truck when the transmission slipped and wouldn't go back into gear while I was driving 70mph on the NYS thruway. Of course there was no shoulder and only 2 lanes...so there we were (me,wife, 2 kids) stuck in the right lane on a dark winter night with no highway lights and trucks speeding by us at 70+ mph. Needless to say Rover took the lease back (after 9 months and only 4,000 miles!) and I went back to BMW, an M3 for me and an X5 for my wife. Steer clear of the Range friend. I wouldn't drive a Range again if it was given to me.
 

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I'm on my 3rd Rover and I still love them. My wife chose to move on I came right back. Range Rovers are for people who like to work/modify their cars. If you dont mind having you car in the shop every so often then its no biggie.
 

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^ I agree.

I have had many Land Rovers in the past and currently have a full size RRSC and for the most part it has been a good car and will continue to buy them. But do lots of research prior, and see if this car is a good fit for you.

Keep in mind, these cars are not for everyone but with the looks, appeal, and brand is worth every penny.

Nothing is like a Range Rover.
 

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About the Touareg that car was a nightmare for me. Issue after issue!! However I will say it was my favourite SUV I have ever had. I loved it way more then my Range Rover Or Cayenne. The interior was hot...and everyone loved it. It also loses the douche factor of the rover
 

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Ha,Ha, that's why we never go to the dealer...:lol::lol:

You can order parts online cheaper than Dodge parts and have them the next day. Take it to a Independent repair shop and you can get them to fix it right the first time.....Dealers hire technicians with no prior experience and train them as they go, then they just do enough to get you out of their hair...they are required to only do what LR says they can...they have no incentive to really help you out....and they never tell you the truth:.....

LIKE:

a Chevy oil filter is the exact same and can be purchased at autozone for $3. Dealer wants $30

Shocks are only $50-$100 aftermarket...Yes Ford shocks are the exact same, even the air suspension shocks. My dealership wanted $1100 for one and told me it was a 3 week order. You can order online for $50, install it yourself in less then 1 hour. Or go to the Ford dealer and they have it instock for $100, or even go to a Midas shop and when they say "I can't get Land Rover shocks", then ask for a Ford one, they'll have it fixed the same day.

Air Compressors for the suspension, cost $800 at the dealership and take weeks to be ordered, these are "instock" and only $125 at the Ford dealer, even same part number.

For the Air Suspension leaking problems that the dealerships try and fix and keep Failing. pull the crappy rubber O-rings off and go to SCUBA shop and replace with silicone O-Rings, you'll never have a leak again..

The dealership wanted $125 to replace my wiper blades, I got mine at Target "on-sale" for $9 and replaced in the parking lot in 5 minutes....

Use aftermarket parts and once it is fixed, it will stay fixed...stay away from LR parts and especially stay away from the Dealership repair techs. Mine kept blowing out batteries, dealer replaced a few of them under warranty then I replaced the factory one with a $60 PepBoys SALE special and have had no problems for the last few years.:wink:


So far, I have not seen any maintenance or repair that can't be done for the same price as any other vehicle as long as you stay a way from the dealership.


Remember in the UK, these are "work" trucks, everybody has one and their are 1,000s of aftermarket parts. Dirt ass cheap.....:eek:hwell:


Seriously, its just a freaking V8 motor, those $30 ea. Land Rover spark plugs are no different then spark plugs for a Chevy, why would you pay that??????:confused:


Coy, which model year range rover are you talking about here? If this really the case, I'm off to go and buy one in the next couple of weeks.
 
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