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There are so many brands of clay, what's important is the grade (light, med. or aggressive)
Maybe a aggressive or med grade on the rear bumper and lower portion & med to light grade for hood, roof, etc. There is a lot of people using Iron X right now. A product that could save a lot of time on claying and provide a more gentle to paint touch!
What will they think of next !!
 

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Auto Wax owns six patents relating to clay products and provides private label clay too many of the detail industry’s leading companies. Under the previous owner, David Miller, Auto Wax aggressively enforced the patent. They initiated and won a major lawsuit against a detail chemical manufacturer in California and won a several million dollar judgement. After this they contacted the seller's of clay bars, strongly advising them to "cease and desist" or you will be sued.

As a result, all of the Polybutene (Polyisobutylene) or plastic clay being manufactured now comes from the same factory in Japan, which as the original patent holder and has a monopoly on the market.

Meguiar's, Mother's, Sonus, Zaino, et al get their clay either from Japan (Source Chem. Inc. one of Japan's biggest clay manufacturers) or from the US licensed manufacturer, Clay Magic, a brand name used by Auto Magic, Auto Wax Co (the U.S. patent holder) (See also article Professional Car washing & Detailing - NTP Media

C.Quart IronX offers a safe chemical alternative to detailers clay that removes metallic particulates completely by using an acid salt solution on the paint surface the micro-fissures (‘pores’) are expanded by an exothermic reaction. This releases ferrous particles and caustic compounds that have developed in the paint's subsurface; the reaction agitates and loosens the particles allowing them to be rinsed away, without causing surface scratching.

Unlike clay that only removes the particulates that protrude from the paint by abrasion, which can cause micro scratches to the paint surface
 

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Yeah IronX is basically to get rid of the Iron deposits on your car it will not get rid of everything like claying will.
DetailersDomain (phil) uses IronX, then washes the cars with W99 and then still clay bars the car. Pretty much no matter what, you should always clay bar.

For the best prices on stuff like this go to
Car Wax, Car Polish, Auto Detail Supplies : CHEMICAL GUYS WHOLESALE AUTO DETAILING SUPPLIES CAR WASH PRODUCTS PROFESSIONAL CAR DETAIL SUPPLY FACTORY DIRECT

They have those wacky 1 day deals where you can save a whole bunch of money.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
One last question for you guys. Unfortunately my car sleeps outside... Somebody told me that if i clay it, about a week later all my work would have been for nothing.

So my question is, would it still be worth it?
 

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It will definately be worth it. The reason people clay bar a car is to get rid of the contamination that is on the surface before polishing. If you just went straight to polishing then you will make things worse. There would be more swirls then what you started with.

But for you it depends where you park your car. Clay the car and wax it if you do not want to polish it. The wax will stick to your paint a lot better and last for longer. And therefore it will not be for nothing.

Some say clay about as often as you change your oil. There is no need to do it every 3k miles tho. Just feel with the back of your hand if your paint is smooth or not. If its not then clay it.

Clay is pretty cheap, and so is a quick detailer. So do it. And take your time.
 

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One last question for you guys. Unfortunately my car sleeps outside... Somebody told me that if i clay it, about a week later all my work would have been for nothing.

So my question is, would it still be worth it?
I'm clearly no expert, but you shouldn't just clay it and call it finished. Claying is just one of the steps in detailing the car.

Usually a clay job is followed up by waxing or sealing.


The clay just removes the contaminants off the paint, and no the effort will not go to waste unless you drive through gravel roads everyday lol.

I usually clay my car about twice a year (with off the shelf mothers clay bar kit from Autozone).
 

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I'm clearly no expert, but you shouldn't just clay it and call it finished. Claying is just one of the steps in detailing the car.

Usually a clay job is followed up by waxing or sealing.


The clay just removes the contaminants off the paint, and no the effort will not go to waste unless you drive through gravel roads everyday lol.

I usually clay my car about twice a year (with off the shelf mothers clay bar kit from Autozone).
Najjjjjjjjjjjjj!! whats up buddy? long time no see lol. ill send you a pm. we need to catch up lol.
 

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You really can't go wrong with CLAY MAGICS blue clay bar , its pretty safe on all surfaces just make sure not to drop it while useing it. It also make a pretty big difference wich lubricant you are useing also with the clay bar. For something you can buy at a retail location meguiers makes a good one. The n dif seal the paint after.
 

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i have 3M and megs in my cabinet.
 

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Clay magic bar is about 40 Dollars. NOT WORTH IT.
the Mothers from Autozone is an Ultrafine, itl do just fine. If you want more serious then go on Chemical guys, you can get a huge bar for like 20 in any grade you want.

I have tried both many times. I regularly maintain my car with a kit from autozone, its cheap and it does the same job. You also get a QD with it.
 

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Whatever brand you get, just remember to NOT move in circles, use LOTS of lubricant (detailing spray), do NOT reuse it if you drop it (even if it looks okay), and use LOTS of lubricant. Did I mention to use lots of lubricant?

Seriously though...it's worth the extra cost. You don't want to mar your paint.
 

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the IronX I think is oxalic acid.
Its been around forever and was used before clay came out. Its works ok but I like clay better. Also I think the patent that auto magic had on clay magic was up last year or the beginning of this year. I have seen people try to push there own clay but people are so used to the blue and red, they don't want anything else lol.
 

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Whatever brand you get, just remember to NOT move in circles, use LOTS of lubricant (detailing spray), do NOT reuse it if you drop it (even if it looks okay), and use LOTS of lubricant. Did I mention to use lots of lubricant?

Seriously though...it's worth the extra cost. You don't want to mar your paint.
+1. spray a good amount of clay water solution on the area before other wise the clay sticks to your paint if dry and it could be pretty bad. also make sure to clean the clay before use so the dirt isnt just sitting on it. Plus while using it, the clay with flatten out and become less rigid, so fold the clay to the clean sides and corners to get a better scrub(thats all from experience)
 

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What type of lubricant or detailing spray are you supposed to use when using clay?
 

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Well at my place we use Meguiars' products, so we have solution that you mix with water and its a light pink color. you can use normal water if need be, but solution i would say is much more preferred plus it adds lubrication to the water to make it easier.

*i think the exact stuff we use is called Last Touch
 

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For a lubricant, I would recommend onr. Or anything cheap. Its just a lubricant, since water isnt ever recommended.
 
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