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As many of you may know, I am looking for a G500.

They are proving to be a bit harder to find.

A lot of them are from up North, Illinois, NY etc. The one I have found has been in Minnesota for 3 1/2 years.

What is the general consensus on buying a car that has been in those kind of areas?
 

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The one major thing to look for is rust on the under-carriage... If you need a car looked at in the Chicago land are let me know, I am car shopping also and don't mind.
 

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Eh, try and find one around Arkansas, very limited rust.
 

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Coming from Detroit Metro to South Carolina. I would say a couple things in advice on your purchase.
Buy from up North.. The cars are cheaper despite the area. Why? IDK. Cars in SC are thousands more than they need to be. They have unreal hwy miles because everything is farther apart here. The mechanics down here are less skilled and the cars have more issues. And above all, I have found Southern people are lazy.. (SORRY SOUTHERN PEOPLE) but that goes back to less care for their vehicle.
Otherwise yeah look for rust but check owners and use a keen eye. If you know what your looking for, you'll see the flaws.
Good Luck.
No offense to anyone. It is what it is.
 

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all you need to make sure is no rust. the salt kills cars up here!
 

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Coming from Detroit Metro to South Carolina. I would say a couple things in advice on your purchase.
Buy from up North.. The cars are cheaper despite the area. Why? IDK. Cars in SC are thousands more than they need to be. They have unreal hwy miles because everything is farther apart here. The mechanics down here are less skilled and the cars have more issues. And above all, I have found Southern people are lazy.. (SORRY SOUTHERN PEOPLE) but that goes back to less care for their vehicle.
Otherwise yeah look for rust but check owners and use a keen eye. If you know what your looking for, you'll see the flaws.
Good Luck.
No offense to anyone. It is what it is.
I will let this slide.... This time :whistle:
 

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We do wash our cars here in the midwest during winter. So if this person took care of their car I'm sure it's fine.
 

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My 2000 4Runner spent its first 5 years in NJ. My mechanic hates working on it and I always end up tossing him $30-$50 extra for all the bolts he had to cut off with a grinder as well as the resulting trips to the hardware store for replacements. When he did my shocks & struts he had a pile of hardware that had been cut/drilled out.

The rust didn't damage the frame, engine, or drivetrain; but it's hell on all the hardware, brake lines, etc. I'd hate to see what it would be like if it had spent another 5-10 years up there.

I have a housemate from Michigan. The wheels on his 2001ish Celica are straight up nasty...Most of the clearcoat is gone and it's just oxidized raw aluminum. I'd hate to see what the undercarriage of his car looks like.
 

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My 2000 4Runner spent its first 5 years in NJ. My mechanic hates working on it and I always end up tossing him $30-$50 extra for all the bolts he had to cut off with a grinder as well as the resulting trips to the hardware store for replacements. When he did my shocks & struts he had a pile of hardware that had been cut/drilled out.

The rust didn't damage the frame, engine, or drivetrain; but it's hell on all the hardware, brake lines, etc. I'd hate to see what it would be like if it had spent another 5-10 years up there.

I have a housemate from Michigan. The wheels on his 2001ish Celica are straight up nasty...Most of the clearcoat is gone and it's just oxidized raw aluminum. I'd hate to see what the undercarriage of his car looks like.
thats why every mechanic here knows about pb blaster and a breaker bar.
 

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Leverage can break them in half just as often as it breaks them free (or round off the heads, but you get the point). My mechanic prefers his nice air tools, but I assure you he'll use the breaker bar if necessary.

In my experience...PB Blaster is great 75% of the time, but only when you can spray it repeatedly and let it soak overnight. Most mechanics aren't afforded that option.

You've got to admit...Nothing beats working on a clean, rust free, car.
 

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Leverage can break them in half just as often as it breaks them free (or round off the heads, but you get the point). My mechanic prefers his nice air tools, but I assure you he'll use the breaker bar if necessary.

In my experience...PB Blaster is great 75% of the time, but only when you can spray it repeatedly and let it soak overnight. Most mechanics aren't afforded that option.

You've got to admit...Nothing beats working on a clean, rust free, car.
I have no idea what you are talking about

;)

my beater/work truck is a 92 jeep cherokee. always been from chicago too... you can imagine what i have learned about rust
 

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Oh yeah...I've seen more than a few XJs with hardly any steel left in the rocker panels. More power to ya for keeping it going.
 

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western and northern MI use sand. central and SE MI use salt.

The only vehicle I've owned in the past 10 years with underbody rust was the Hummer, which was used very often. The rust was not bad at all (surface) and easily fixable (like most under carriage rust).

Nick
 
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