MasterWhite Photography - Page 2

+ Reply to Thread
Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 1 2 3 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 22
Like Tree2Likes

Thread: MasterWhite Photography

          
   
  1. #11
    MasterWhite's Avatar
    MasterWhite is offline Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    1,954

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by -dc- View Post
    Here I found an article that might be helpful for you: DSLR vs Point and Shoot Camera

    If you don't want to upgrade to a DSLR just yet, I totally understand. I shoot with a Nikon D800 and each image is 40MB. That's a huge amount of data (the resulting image is 8K) and information. It also shoots full HD uncompressed video. Not everyone needs that much data or wants to deal with...I have to have it for my work, no way around it.

    But for personal shots, I have a Nikon Coolpix P340 P&S that takes stills and video. It fits in a pocket and is great for photos on the go. I would never bother to learn to use the manual controls on it because Nikon designed it with a great set of features that do everything automatically. On the other hand, I only shoot full manual on the D800, and I generally have the D800 mounted on a battery pack with wireless shutter all mounted to a tripod and sturdy head. The P&S doesn't require any of that- just point the camera, gently press to focus, then hold down to take the shot...done.

    So the main problem is AFTER you take the photo. With a P&S you really should not be editing anything. Most likely you're shooting JPG compressed images, not NEF RAW or fine quality tiff or something. Why does that matter? Because compression determines how your camera processes the data it captures. The lower the compression (RAW = uncompressed) the better control you have after you shoot the image. This is especially critical for blacks and whites, which are the first to equal 0 and 1 respectively. Black should never be perfectly 0 and white should never be 1 (for example). The range in your image when you edit it after should allow you to pull up or crush the blacks without destroying the image.

    So compression is your main enemy with P&S, in addition to the overall issues of noisy ISO and sometimes wrong white balance, chroma, and lack of depth-of-field. You also get no vignette. While that may be desirable on some photos, on others you may want a natural vignette to help add depth to the image, and depth of field obviously changes things significantly. The photos of your 300M next to the water would be particularly served well by having depth of field applied to the FG vs BG.

    Finally, things like bokeh and the way light reacts to your glass can play a big part in your "look". I can recognize canon glass, for example vs. zeiss primes. My zeiss are sharp edge to edge and have a creamy finish, whereas canon glass typically is more milky and smooth. This is a personal preference of what I like vs. what someone else likes. I like the way zeiss deals with light, lens flares, and bokeh...

    With a P&S you can't even really do anything about the bokeh at all, because you pretty much won't get any...so it's one more thing you won't be able to learn about as a result. I think that's where manual focus and a large set of glass to choose from can really educate a photographer on how the camera works. Things like focus, F stop and ISO all change how the camera reacts to light (regardless of exposure).

    Sorry this got a bit long...but the point is you can only go so far with the P&S, even in manual.

    On the other hand, some people buy a Nikon or Canon and a full set of glass and they never improve...so equipment is only a part of the equation.

    Why not at least try out a few cameras and see what you think?

    now say i shot in RAW, edit in photoshop and save as JPEG, would i have similar image degradation as when having the camera compress image to jpeg?
    Last edited by MasterWhite; 05-08-2014 at 04:58 PM.

  2. #12
    -dc-'s Avatar
    -dc- is offline Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    172

    Default

    Not sure if that camera will shoot raw, but either way, this should help you:

    RAW vs JPEG (JPG) - The Ultimate Visual Guide

  3. #13
    -dc-'s Avatar
    -dc- is offline Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    172

    Default

    Also, are you a Mac or PC guy?

    I don't recommend photoshop for photos. Try Aperture or Lightroom. I use Aperture even on professional work. Will make your life so much easier for doing post.

    If you need to clean up an image beyond that, as in paint or composite, then Photoshop comes into play...or Nuke or similar.

  4. #14
    MasterWhite's Avatar
    MasterWhite is offline Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    1,954

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by -dc- View Post
    Also, are you a Mac or PC guy?

    I don't recommend photoshop for photos. Try Aperture or Lightroom. I use Aperture even on professional work. Will make your life so much easier for doing post.

    If you need to clean up an image beyond that, as in paint or composite, then Photoshop comes into play...or Nuke or similar.
    i use a 27" iMac and Photoshop CS5

  5. #15
    MasterWhite's Avatar
    MasterWhite is offline Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    1,954

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by -dc- View Post
    Not sure if that camera will shoot raw, but either way, this should help you:

    RAW vs JPEG (JPG) - The Ultimate Visual Guide
    the Vizio shoots in TIFF, but Samsung is JPEG only
    Last edited by MasterWhite; 05-08-2014 at 09:54 PM.

  6. #16
    MasterWhite's Avatar
    MasterWhite is offline Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    1,954

    Default

    Old pics from the age of Fast & Furious











    Last edited by MasterWhite; 05-08-2014 at 07:37 PM.

  7. #17
    MasterWhite's Avatar
    MasterWhite is offline Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    1,954

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by -dc- View Post
    Also, are you a Mac or PC guy?

    I don't recommend photoshop for photos. Try Aperture or Lightroom. I use Aperture even on professional work. Will make your life so much easier for doing post.

    If you need to clean up an image beyond that, as in paint or composite, then Photoshop comes into play...or Nuke or similar.
    i Took your advice and got my hands on Adobe Lightroom 5. It seems to be working great so far.

    PS: you and i have our disagreements in the past, with me questioning your motivations and expertise as well as motivational content in your thread. Just want to say Thank You for your suggestions and sharing your experience when it comes to Photography regardless of what was said in the past.
    Last edited by MasterWhite; 05-08-2014 at 10:06 PM.

  8. #18
    ikozhukhin's Avatar
    ikozhukhin is offline Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, United States
    Posts
    377

    Default

    While lightroom is great, before you can really benefit from the program, you should work more on the pictures you take. Try to shoot more during the day, and focus more on the composition. Also don't over edit, the frames can be avoided.

  9. #19
    -dc-'s Avatar
    -dc- is offline Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Los Angeles
    Posts
    172

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by MasterWhite View Post
    i Took your advice and got my hands on Adobe Lightroom 5. It seems to be working great so far.

    PS: you and i have our disagreements in the past, with me questioning your motivations and expertise as well as motivational content in your thread. Just want to say Thank You for your suggestions and sharing your experience when it comes to Photography regardless of what was said in the past.
    All good, I am just here to help people...

    I agree with the above comment about the frames not being needed, and also to shoot more during the day at first...it helps. One other thing I'd add is your choice of aspect ratio. If you want your images to feel more cinematic or lifelike, try cropping to HD or 2.40, or even wider. It will add more appeal to your shots.

    This is a quick example of how I think you could improve an existing shot...

    Attachment 130073

  10. #20
    MasterWhite's Avatar
    MasterWhite is offline Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    1,954

    Default

    Spent sometime getting to know Lightroom and here are the results, also took your advice on cropping wider, and white balance.































    Last edited by MasterWhite; 09-15-2014 at 04:21 PM.

+ Reply to Thread
Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 1 2 3 LastLast

Quick Reply Quick Reply

Register Now

Please enter the name by which you would like to log-in and be known on this site.

Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

You MUST be 18 years or OLDER to Register for Luxury4Play. By selecting "Yes", you are performing a legal acknowledgment that you are 18 years of age or older.

Please select your insurance company (Optional)

Log-in

Posting Permissions

  • You may post new threads
  • You may post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Powered by scoobie.com.