Thread: Some Prefer Things Complicated

Panerai 04 B Series






Lange 1 Tourbillon







Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Seconds





Philippe Dufour Simplicity

It’s been 18 years since A. Lange & Söhne put German watchmaking on the map with its now-iconic Lange 1 model. The collector community took notice of its boldly off-center dial design and large date, as well as traditional Saxon elements in the movement, like the three-quarters plate, screwed gold chatons and screw balance, and the watch quickly became the foundation of Lange’s collection. This year, the Lange 1 gets a big brother, the Grand Lange 1, which boasts not only a larger case (40.9-mm diameter, as opposed to the original’s 38.5 mm) and elegantly scaled-up dial design, but also a brand-new manufacture movement, Lange’s hand-wound Caliber L095.1.

Because the movement is larger than the Lange 1′s Caliber L901.0, the dial architecture of the Lange 1 can be transposed onto the larger, solid silver dial of the Grand Lange 1 without any overlapping of elements. The hours and minutes remain on the large subdial at 9 o’clock, the running seconds on the subdial at 5 o’clock, the power reserve hand at 3 o’clock, and the “outsize” date window (which has also been enlarged by the same factor as the dial itself) at 1 o’clock.











From a technical standpoint, the bigger diameter of the new caliber (34.1 mm) also allowed Lange to arrange more parts on one level; the result is that Caliber L095.1 is only 4.7 mm thick. Another advantage of the larger dimensions is that the watch can achieve a 72-hour power reserve by using only one space-saving mainspring barrel. Of course, the case — which is available in yellow gold, rose gold, or platinum — is also correspondingly thin despite its large diameter: 8.8 mm thick.


The Grand Lange 1 is available in rose gold (top three images), platinium (above) and yellow gold (below).



The caseback features a sapphire viewing window through which you can admire the details of the movement, which include the brand’s signature Glashütte waves on the three-quarters plate made of untreated German silver; the exposed balance with hand-engraved balance cock that beats at 21,000 vph; and the ruby jewels secured by seven screwed gold chatons. The yellow-gold and rose-gold models are $39,300 and the platinum model is $53,200.


Technical characteristics:

Movement: Lange manufacture Caliber L095.1, manual-wind; diameter = 34.1 mm; thickness = 4.7 mm; precision-adjusted in five positions, decorated and assembled by hand; plates and bridges made of untreated German silver; hand-engraved balance cock; 397 parts; 47 jewels; seven screwed gold chatons; lever escapement; shock-resistant screw balance; in-house balance spring; frequency = 21,600 vph; 72-hour power reserve

Functions: Hours, minutes, subsidiary seconds with stop-seconds function; power reserve indicator; outsize date with push-piece for quick correction

Case: Yellow gold, rose gold or platinum; diameter = 40.9 mm; thickness = 8.8 mm; sapphire crystal front and back; attached to hand-stitched crocodile leather strap in medium-brown, red-brown or black, with prong buckle in yellow gold, rose gold or platinum

Dial and Hands: Solid silver dial in champagne, argente or rhodie; hands in yellow gold, rose gold or rhodiumed gold

Opus 12 has made the top of my list for watches. I love seeing the inner workings of a watch.

Hautlence presents the rose gold HLC06, inspired by minimalist art and the famed maxim of architect Mies van der Rohe: "less is more". A model stripped of all excesses; it features an opaline chocolate dial in an 18-carat rose gold case measuring 41 mm in diameter. Taking the time display principle from its first calibre, the HL, the house movement has been rebuilt around the jumping hour and retrograde minute, both set harmoniously over 180 degrees. Playing with the repetition of the circles, right down to the sectors on the minute display arc, the redesigned face of the HLC represents a knowing geometric allusion to the repetition of infinity.

A complex piece with a streamlined aesthetic, the HLC06 displays almost architectural features, such as the skeleton hour and minute surrounds and semi-opaque hour disc. The jumping hour and retrograde minute are driven by the ingenious HL patented mechanism, which combines the sliding movement of the snail feeler spindle's retraction with a gold inertia block acting as an inertia wheel and providing the energy required for the disc to jump. This mechanism is driven from the crown which, in keeping with an ergonomic and aesthetic whole, is situated at the 40-minute position.

This 3rd in-house hand-wound mechanical calibre, with its Côtes de Genève and hand bevelling decorations on the bridges, sees Hautlence consolidating its position amongst the leading watch brands and demonstrating its long-term vision. ■
















Technical sheet

Model name: HLC 06 – rose gold
Model summary: Hautlence HLC 06 in-house movement. Jumping hour, retrograde minute. Manual winding mechanical movement

Display: jumping hours, retrograde minutes

Calibre
Movement description :
Jumping hours, retrograde minutes with connecting rods system
Number of components : 207
Power reserve : 40h
Regulation organ : 21’600 vibrations/hour
Number of jewels : 24
Finishing : Traditional “Côtes de Genève” and hand angled bridges

Case
Case: 18-karat rose 4N gold
Finishing : polished
Screwed lugs: 18-carat 4N rose gold
Dimension: diameter : 41mm / thickness : 9 mm
Glass: sapphire crystal with angled edges, multi layer anti reflecting treatment
Back: screwed sapphire case back with stamps and officials engraving: “Hautlence” and “Horlogerie Suisse”
Crown: polished with Hautlence logo: 18-karat 4N rose gold
Identification and numbering plate : HL C 06 – 01/88

Dial
Base dial brown opalin with Hautlence ’s logo hand applied. Skeleton micro-machined hours & minutes dials, 4N gold. Jumping hour disc, semi-transparent: metallization made by a vapour deposition process to generate the concentric bands. Hands, laser-cut profile and polished 4N gold with superluminova arrow
Connecting rods, hand angled and linear fine brushed and 4N gold plated

StrapBrown hand sewn genuine Louisiana alligator strap with square scales.
Interchangeability lugs. Buckle: pin or folding buckle, 18-karat 4N rose gold

Water resistance: 30 meters (3ATM)
Limited edition: 88 pieces

Packaging
Makassar ebony wood box containing :
• identification and numbering plate
• special leather travel box
• watchmakers magnifying glass
• instruction booklet
• warranty card (3 years)

Wow all of these are sick, but I'm really liking that last one

The last 2 are f'ing sick. I need to step my game up

Jacky Ickx. Edition V Chopard Watch. “Only Victory Counts” | Crank and Piston Car Culture Lifestyle Community

NEW TOY . The most user friendly Travel time IMHO