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07-02-2009, 12:54 AM #1
Best restaurant in the UK? It's a pub - The Sportsman (Seasalter, UK)
The Sportsman was the last of the restaurants on my recent trip. And while Noma was special, The Sportsman was just downright perfect - it lived up to every expectation I had. I've avoided London on most of my European adventures but The Sportsman is a reason to get a connecting flight through.
The chef has a uber-local philosophy. He will make everything he possibly can (bread, butter, ham, grab seaweed out of the water, pick herbs in the countryside) and everything else comes from within 10-15 miles of the restaurant (pork, lamb, fish line-caught off the local boats, etc.)
And it's just a pub for the surrounding few villages. People come here to hang out and drink - and get some great food.
Here's a quick review since it will take at least a month to get it up on the blog...
Oyster with home-made chorizio - it's not necessarily a new combination but it's a great combination when the product is of this quality. A short quick statement - this is serious business.

Carrots

Pork scratchings - yummy!

Pickled Herring - some of the best herring of the trip,

Bread, home-churned butter and Seasalter sea salt - the butter was only a notch below my all-time favorite (Bordier at L'Arpege, Paris) and the bread was some of the best i've had in a restaurant in recent memory


Rockpool - Influenced by Manresa's tidal pool but the two are very different dishes. Manresa's is far saltier whereas this tended toward the herbacious (and somewhat sweet if i recall correctly.) It was quite a delicate dish.

Something I've forgotten

Crab risotto - Iodine and crab essence - some reports have the rice being overcooked and maybe it was just a touch but it added to the creaminess

Seasalter Ham cured in December 2007 - I'm sitting there, falling in love, and then this comes out. Remarkable. No, it wasn't quite Jamonisimo's bellato but it was gorgeous stuff.


Brill braised in vin jaune with smoked pork - The bones had been used in the rockpool earlier, and this was obviously a fresh line-caught fish from the morning - if only people could experience such beauty - they would never settle for the crap in the supermarkets. As good as the fish was, the vin jaune stole the show for me - it had a wonderful creaminess without being overbearing and a great balance.

Fried lamb belly (i think) - Not quite my thing but good nonetheless - there was a great interplay between the crunch breading and tender meat inside


Roast rack of Monkshill farm lamb - A beautiful piece of lamb - last time I had lamb this good was probably last year at Manresa

Elderflower panna cotta?

Elderflowers - Fried and Lolly dipped in cake milk - Just look at the exquisite frying - excellent - Cake milk - very yum (much better than a Moto liquid donut!)


Rhubarb sorbet - A bit unexpected, considering the meal we just had, but the pop rocks inside were perfect for the rhubarb's tartness

Mignardises - A nice finish without being overbearing

If you want to eat the best food in the UK, I believe this is it. I really wished I had planned better - I would love to do a la carte for lunch and tasting menu for dinner (or even over 2 days) - some of the "regular" a la carte dishes sounded, and looked, better than some on this tasting menu.
The Sportsman would make my Top 10 in the world.
- chuck01 996tt - GT700
forged pistons, forged rods, clubsport intercoolers, upgraded fuel system, gen 1 fabspeed loud exhaust, sachs stg 3 clutch, 964 light-weight flywheel, b&m short shifter, motons, oz superleggera III wheels, strosek rear spoiler, lots of carbon fiber inside, custom lamborghini titanium metallic paint
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07-06-2009, 02:45 PM #2
The bread and butter looks remarkable. How would you describe the flavor of the ham?
How were the carrots served? I frequently ate fresh radishes in France with a little butter, salt and pepper.
Boost Is Better
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07-06-2009, 07:33 PM #3
carrots were exactly as you seem them - au natural.
ham was quite good - they served it at the right temperature (which is near impossible these days) so the fat just melted on your tongue; and quite sweet.
- chuck01 996tt - GT700
forged pistons, forged rods, clubsport intercoolers, upgraded fuel system, gen 1 fabspeed loud exhaust, sachs stg 3 clutch, 964 light-weight flywheel, b&m short shifter, motons, oz superleggera III wheels, strosek rear spoiler, lots of carbon fiber inside, custom lamborghini titanium metallic paint
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07-06-2009, 07:41 PM #4
Wow, that is some beautiful food
Fred Hoang-Davis
The Other Fred
"Oh wait, was she a great big fat person?"
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07-07-2009, 04:28 AM #5
Another incredible post! God I can't wait to go on my Euro Trip. I intend on adding some of the places you have gone to my list when I go next year. I always look forward to your posts. Now that I have my camera back I will start posting up my reviews. They won't be as good as your reviews as I am an amateur foodie but I enjoy posting them up.
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07-07-2009, 04:49 AM #6
01 996tt - GT700
forged pistons, forged rods, clubsport intercoolers, upgraded fuel system, gen 1 fabspeed loud exhaust, sachs stg 3 clutch, 964 light-weight flywheel, b&m short shifter, motons, oz superleggera III wheels, strosek rear spoiler, lots of carbon fiber inside, custom lamborghini titanium metallic paint
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07-07-2009, 05:12 AM #7
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07-07-2009, 02:24 PM #8
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The Crab Risotto looks amazing! I'll have to stop here when I'm back in London in the fall.
How was your stay at the Hoxton?
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07-07-2009, 02:38 PM #9
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Chuck.. great review! Can't wait to read about your entire trip on the blog.
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07-07-2009, 08:00 PM #10
perfect hotel - exactly what i like - who needs amenities, just give me wireless - nice enough but cheap enough - and a location i never really explored before.
lamboryder, read through my blog and the AGSurfer post from a few days ago for lots of Paris ideas, both high-end, casual, and speciality shops.
- chuck01 996tt - GT700
forged pistons, forged rods, clubsport intercoolers, upgraded fuel system, gen 1 fabspeed loud exhaust, sachs stg 3 clutch, 964 light-weight flywheel, b&m short shifter, motons, oz superleggera III wheels, strosek rear spoiler, lots of carbon fiber inside, custom lamborghini titanium metallic paint



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