Stock F430 Scuderia Wheels Weight

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Thread: Stock F430 Scuderia Wheels Weight

          
   
  1. #1
    Rad
    Rad is offline Junior Member
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    Default Stock F430 Scuderia Wheels Weight

    I just checked the weight on the stock F430 Scuderia wheels. They're not that light:

    Front: 8"x19": 25 lbs (includes center cap and TPMS)
    Front: 10"x19": 28 lbs (includes center cap and TPMS)

    I'm getting the car aligned and corner weighed this Thursday so I will obtain an actual weight figure from electronic scales rather than the handbook. The car feels extremely light, my guess is that it runs at around 3,000 lbs with a low fuel load.
    2003 Toyota Celica GT-S
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    2008 BMW M3
    2009 F430 Scuderia

  2. #2
    MTK
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    those HRE's are wider and a bit lighter
    please take all my advice

    track with stocks, then track with TT's spec'd HRE's

    you'll be loving life

  3. #3
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    mille162 is offline Junior Member
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    wheel weights can be confusing.

    Keep in mind, the overall weight of the wheel isn't as important as where the weight is in the wheel.

    I haven't worked for BBS in a few years and can't confirm they're still making all of Ferrari's wheels, but I can't imagine they wouldn't be as they've been the OE provider for years (80% of BBS business is OE providing wheels to Ferrari, Maserati, Bentley, Audi, BMW, MB, AMG, etc)

    It was a cast process that BBS then sends through a patented flow-forming process. Basically, the wheel is made 6" wide in the casting, then it's heated, placed over a spinning drum, and a metal wheel applies pressure and stretches the outer drum to the required 10" width. Rotating mass is bad, so the more weight you can remove from the outside of the wheel, the "lighter" the wheel will perform.

    A competing company that may make a wheel with a cast 10" outer, can still have a thinner or lighter forged center, and an overall lighter weight wheel, but the performance of the wheel is not as good as the slightly heavier BBS.

    Wheels are pretty much unregulated, yet the three most important items on a car are it's brakes, tires, and wheels. The only thing keeping you stuck to the road are the tires and wheels!

    Yes, lighter weight is good, but just because it's lighter, doesn't mean it's better. Make sure your wheels are TUV certified, and even better JIL.

    Also keep in mind, just like there's not such thing as a perfect tire that works in all conditions, there no perfect wheel that works for all situations. A street wheel is designed with a little more flex to accomiadate a softer ride, ability to absorb pot holes, and doesn't have to be concerned with extreme lateral force since it's using steet tires with limited lateral grip . A race wheel on the other hand has extreme force from lateral grip since it's on race slicks, is running maximum size calipers and has to worry about lateral flex in clipping the calipers as well as effecting cornering characteristics, yet doesn't have to worry about impact damage as there are no potholes on tracks (any curb damage from going off track can be quickly fixed with spares in the pits). Long term use is also not a concern as most race wheels are used 1 season, are multi-piece and can quickly be repaired, and there's always multiple spare sets nearby. Two different products for two different uses. If you took a race wheel on the street, you'd probably suffer a cracked rim in less than a week.

    Something else to keep in mind is that tires all weight different, so sometimes just finding the lightest tire in your needed size and grip properties would improve the car's performance by eliminating weight from the most important part, the outer rotaing mass.

    I'm not endorsing BBS, or bashing HRE, although if you want to send me a PM I'd be more than happy to give you my honest (and well developed) insiders opinion on each companies strengths and weaknesses.

    Personally, I wouldn't want to take a highly engineered wheel off my Ferrari and replace it with a third parties product. I know how much they spent on wheel R&D (the 1991 F1 wheel was a die-forged magnessium wheel and the first to use scalloped spokes, this has finally made it into BBS production street wheels in 2007 with the LM-R). What are the chances that a local wheel shop that makes the same application in different sizes for multiple applications is making an overall superior product? You trust Ferrrari to make an high performance engine and transmission, yet you don't trust them in designing a wheel that works best on the car (assuming you're not replacing with a full race wheel for track use)...
    sergios and autoaim like this.
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  4. #4
    Tezta is offline Junior Member
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    Are you sure they are only 8 and 10? I thought the 430/scud had 8.5 and 10.5"

  5. #5
    John Nouri is offline Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by mille162 View Post
    wheel weights can be confusing.

    Keep in mind, the overall weight of the wheel isn't as important as where the weight is in the wheel.

    I haven't worked for BBS in a few years and can't confirm they're still making all of Ferrari's wheels, but I can't imagine they wouldn't be as they've been the OE provider for years (80% of BBS business is OE providing wheels to Ferrari, Maserati, Bentley, Audi, BMW, MB, AMG, etc)

    It was a cast process that BBS then sends through a patented flow-forming process. Basically, the wheel is made 6" wide in the casting, then it's heated, placed over a spinning drum, and a metal wheel applies pressure and stretches the outer drum to the required 10" width. Rotating mass is bad, so the more weight you can remove from the outside of the wheel, the "lighter" the wheel will perform.

    A competing company that may make a wheel with a cast 10" outer, can still have a thinner or lighter forged center, and an overall lighter weight wheel, but the performance of the wheel is not as good as the slightly heavier BBS.

    Wheels are pretty much unregulated, yet the three most important items on a car are it's brakes, tires, and wheels. The only thing keeping you stuck to the road are the tires and wheels!

    Yes, lighter weight is good, but just because it's lighter, doesn't mean it's better. Make sure your wheels are TUV certified, and even better JIL.

    Also keep in mind, just like there's not such thing as a perfect tire that works in all conditions, there no perfect wheel that works for all situations. A street wheel is designed with a little more flex to accomiadate a softer ride, ability to absorb pot holes, and doesn't have to be concerned with extreme lateral force since it's using steet tires with limited lateral grip . A race wheel on the other hand has extreme force from lateral grip since it's on race slicks, is running maximum size calipers and has to worry about lateral flex in clipping the calipers as well as effecting cornering characteristics, yet doesn't have to worry about impact damage as there are no potholes on tracks (any curb damage from going off track can be quickly fixed with spares in the pits). Long term use is also not a concern as most race wheels are used 1 season, are multi-piece and can quickly be repaired, and there's always multiple spare sets nearby. Two different products for two different uses. If you took a race wheel on the street, you'd probably suffer a cracked rim in less than a week.

    Something else to keep in mind is that tires all weight different, so sometimes just finding the lightest tire in your needed size and grip properties would improve the car's performance by eliminating weight from the most important part, the outer rotaing mass.

    I'm not endorsing BBS, or bashing HRE, although if you want to send me a PM I'd be more than happy to give you my honest (and well developed) insiders opinion on each companies strengths and weaknesses.

    Personally, I wouldn't want to take a highly engineered wheel off my Ferrari and replace it with a third parties product. I know how much they spent on wheel R&D (the 1991 F1 wheel was a die-forged magnessium wheel and the first to use scalloped spokes, this has finally made it into BBS production street wheels in 2007 with the LM-R). What are the chances that a local wheel shop that makes the same application in different sizes for multiple applications is making an overall superior product? You trust Ferrrari to make an high performance engine and transmission, yet you don't trust them in designing a wheel that works best on the car (assuming you're not replacing with a full race wheel for track use)...
    AMAZING READ!
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  6. #6
    mille162's Avatar
    mille162 is offline Junior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tezta View Post
    Are you sure they are only 8 and 10? I thought the 430/scud had 8.5 and 10.5"
    wasn't at BBS when this model was released to the public, however my pre-production notes showed

    19x8 front with a 235/35 19 tire
    19x10 rear with a 285/35 19 tire

    aftermarket you can go up to
    19x8.5 (27mm offset) with the stock 235/35 19 tire
    19x11 (34mm offset) with the stock 285/35 19 tire

    or, I've seen tuners mount the following (I can't imagine why you'd ever put a 20" wheel on a sports car!)

    20x8.5 with a 225/30 20 tire
    20x11 with a 285/30 20 tire
    or
    20x9.5
    20x12
    Last edited by mille162; 04-20-2009 at 02:40 AM.
    -Mille162

    "I know who you are, I know what you're thinking, I know what you're going to be thinking. Here's why you're wrong. You know it, I know it, so let's not waste each other's time" - (Steve Jobs)

  7. #7
    R Motorsports is offline Junior Member
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    Anyone knows the offset of stock Scuderia wheels?

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