Thread: Car Wash Steps and recommedned products

I was just thinking it would be nice to have a sticky thread in here listing, for amateurs, each step, in order, you would take when fully detailing a car and the product you'd recommend for that job with a link where to purchase it. I am just getting into the detailing and would like to know which product is recommended for each step. I realize the products are listed in each detailed car thread...but one sticky with links would be nice.

Just a thought.

Sounds like a great idea Patrick! I'll start burning up my keyboard right now and have something for you shortly! We could do a "featurette" and make it like a chapter series.

I've been thinking about this for the longest lol. I've been into to dealing ever since I got my first car at the age of 18. I've been pretty good at it (or so I thought), until about 3 months ago when I discovered paint correction, gloss-it, etc. I figured that once I learn that, it will be a very useful tool. As for the step-by-step thing, I think saintv90's idea is great.

Originally Posted by Jason@Gloss-it

Sounds like a great idea Patrick! I'll start burning up my keyboard right now and have something for you shortly! We could do a "featurette" and make it like a chapter series.

YES!!!!

Be careful what you ask for................. as The Gloss-it team has LOT'S of CONTENT & INFO our FAQ section has over 15 chapters of how to and why.

After late August I will be conducting detail seminars @ my shop in Fremont for Bay Area L4P members covering all the basics, and for a chosen few if you want to have paint correction tutelage I will do it for groups of three a session.

Anyone interested pm me for details.

Originally Posted by Auto Concierge

Be careful what you ask for................. as The Gloss-it team has LOT'S of CONTENT & INFO our FAQ section has over 15 chapters of how to and why.

After late August I will be conducting detail seminars @ my shop in Fremont for Bay Area L4P members covering all the basics, and for a chosen few if you want to have paint correction tutelage I will do it for groups of three a session.

Anyone interested pm me for details.

Wish I lived in the bay area!

I know from my own experience that the detailing steps and products sometimes vary depending on the make/ model vehicle. With that in mind thought I would share an old article I found on the XJ-S...

Step 1--Basic Cleaning: remove any items (trash) from Interior.

Step 2--Carpets and Mats: Remove the floor mats, the front carpets, and the foam pads under the carpets. On the convertibles, these foam pads can get wet due to leaks in the top, and they can take on a musty odor that smells like, well, an old British Car. Whether coupe or convertible, a good airing out in the sun for an afternoon (on both sides) will make them smell better. A little baking soda sprinkled on and vacuumed off will help to soak up bad odors. Don't forget to wipe down the paint on the floor boards too.

NOTE:ON MY XK "FOAM" MATS REPLACED WITH DYNAMAT.

If you have mats over your carpets, hopefully your carpets are in good shape. Start by thoroughly vacuuming them. Lay the carpeting on a flat clean surface and go over it for several minutes with the vacuum. Wait, you're still not done! Pick the carpets up and beat them against a chain link fence (preferable) or a brick wall or other flat object. There is a lot of embedded dirt in these carpets--then vacuum again. Hang them up on a clothes-line to air out in the sunshine.

If you want to really clean these well, then rent a professional steam cleaning system.Plan "B" is to use a spray-on carpet cleaner. I have had excellent results with a product in the USA called "Woolite (brand) Spray Carpet Cleaner".

Step 3- Seats, Dashboard and Interior Panels: If your home vacuum cleaner has one of those round soft bristle attachments, run it over the surfaces of the seats (especially in those crevices!) Also run it along the door panels, rear deck window ledge, along the top of the dashboard, around the instrument cluster, the steering wheel yoke, and especially into the dashboard ventilation nozzles. Don't forget the interior side panels and the storage bins in the doors. This is an important step to pick up the big surface dust before we start using any cleaners on the interior surfaces. If you leave out this step, you'll actually wash the dirt more into these surfaces. Not good!

NOTE: I USE A DAMP FOAM PAINT BRUSH TO GET INTO CREVICES.

Step 4--Cleaning the Leather: First, you have to clean the leather. There are commercial leather cleaning products on the market, and generally, they are all pretty good. However, I like to start with a clean bucket of warm water with just a little mild soap. Murphy's Oil Soap or Saddle Soap is good. Take a small light colored sponge, rinse in the solution and wring until slightly damp, and wipe down the surfaces of the seats and inside panels. Do a little portion at a time, and keep repeating until you do not see any more "black" on the sponge. DO NOT SCRUB OR RUB HARD. Just gentle little wipes in a sweeping (not circular) motion. Think of "picking off" the dirt rather than rubbing it off. When the water starts to get dirty, change water, grasshopper. Using dirty water just spreads the dirt around. Immediately wipe the surface with a soft terry cloth towel. Do not let water or moisture stand on the surface for more than a few seconds--it will dry out the leather.

Don't forget the steering wheel as this is probably the dirtiest of all, and since it's black, it hides dirt really well. Be especially careful in the "don't rub" department here. Take your time. .

Next, there are a lot of commercial leather "cleaners" on the market. I can't begin to mention all of them, but the stuff in the green bottle available from your local Jaguar dealer was formulated by Connolly in Britain. I like it. Kiwi (brand) Saddle soap isn't too bad either, and actually makes the leather softer. In any product you choose, follow the directions. Yes, I know you are cleaning these surfaces *twice*, but that's the whole idea! You can't restore the beauty of the leather until ALL of the dirt is off of it.

Step 5--Polishing the Leather (seats, side panels, and dashboard top): We are now ready to put some life back in this leather. Actually, this is a two step process. If you have ever seriously shined shoes you know the importance of preparing your surface. The leather needs to be moisturized and treated, then shined. Putting a shine on under nourished leather is a quick fix, and the effect will fade fast. You need to feed the leather first, then polish.

The dealer sells the Jaguar "Hide Food" (identical to the Connolly Hide Food). This deep moisturizes and protects the leather. Put it on liberally. If you use half to three-quarters of a container on the inside of your XJ-S, you're doing well. Goop it on with a wash rag towel, and rub into the leather in light, circular motions. Let it sit for 1-2 minutes, then wipe off with a clean terry cloth towel. Don't use dirty or wet towels. You'll need the about a half a dozen hand towels sized towels.

NOTE: I ALSO USE LEXOL CLEAN AND PROTECT BETWEEN "TREATMENTS"

Use hide food on everything! Rear parcel shelf, seats, center armrest, side panels, and especially the top of the dashboard. You can rub it in a lot harder here. This puts a wonderful sheen on your dashboard top without a lot of shiny glare back onto your windscreen, and deep moisturizes it from cracking. Don't forget the steering wheel, and also the surfaces on the sides of the transmission tunnel.

Hey, we're not done yet! You must follow all of this TLC up with Gliptone Leather Cleaner, available form British Auto USA, or see their ad in Jaguar World. I've read that some of you have not had good results with this on the list, but it has worked a small miracle on my leather. I think the secret with both Gliptone and Hide Food is don't be stingy. You have to use copious amounts of the product and let it sink in. Besides, Gliptone is what a Rolls Royce owner friend of mine says that RR recommends for its cars. Use a terry wash cloth, and clean terry towels to wipe off. Let it sit for 2-4 minutes before removing. Your leather may still be "thirsty" after the first application. If it absorbs it really fast, wipe it off, buff the surface with the towel, and re-apply. If you have ever spit shined shoes, you'll know what I mean. Also use this on ALL surfaces. It is money well spent.

Step 6--Wood Veneer: That glorious Jaguar veneer. This can be brought to a beautiful sheen with Scott's Liquid Gold. I've used spray waxes, furniture polishes, etc. and this is the best. It cleans and shines, and moisturizes the wood. If you do NOT keep your wood cleaned and moisturized, it will crack. Rub it on in small circular motions. Wipe off all residue and buff to a high shine.

Step 7--Rubber trim pieces and door jams: There are small rubber pieces in the interior, notably by the windows and the foot pedals. Use a Q-tip or your finger wrapped around a terry cloth towel and wipe these crevices several times--they will shine up beautifully! Little details like this really set off cleaning from detailing. You can clean without detailing, but you can not detail without cleaning. Spray the rubber around the door jams and wipe down. Then do it again. This rubber does have a tendency to rot or tare if not taken care of. The aluminum kick plate can be polished.

Step 8--Chrome pieces: Polish. I surprised myself in taking over 30 minutes on all these pieces. Go slowly, apply, and wipe off. Repeat if necessary. Take your time. Patience in detailing is everything. The important thing in all of these steps, is once you do a through deep cleaning and detailing the next time is a lot easier! These chrome pieces will really set off the interior.

Step 9--Glass and Instruments: Why clean the class last? Because it's probably gotten mucked up with all this dusting, spraying, and wiping you've done so far! A good glass cleaner is essential. I've used several, both foam and liquid. Clean cloth towels are essential (again). You may have to clean the glass 3-4 times before it comes "clean". This is my least favorite part. BTW, you can't really see if you've cleaned the inside adequately unless you clean the outside too. Yeah, that's right, more work! But hey, this isn't just ANY car, it's an XJ-S,and it is worth it. If you are fanatical, you'll remove the instrument cluster, and clean the inside and outside of the instrument cluster. On the instrument gauges, a *very* light spray of the silicone spray will "moisturize" the black paint on the gauges. Also spray and wipe it on all the plastic pieces around the instrument cluster.

Step 10--Vents: If you a fanatic like me, take some window cleaner and Q-tips, and clean out the vents on the dash. A quick shot of silicone spray and a wipe down with a lint free towel will make them look better than new.

OK, we made it (again). Yeah, I am a nut to have a) spent en evening writing this. b) be this maniacal in spending a whole day cleaning the inside of any car. But then again, this isn't JUST a car, it's an XJ-S. I guarantee you'll be satisfied with the results and also enjoying bonding with your Jaguar.

I only I stayed in those areas where the seminars are being held

Originally Posted by Jason@Gloss-it

Sounds like a great idea Patrick! I'll start burning up my keyboard right now and have something for you shortly! We could do a "featurette" and make it like a chapter series.

Yes! I would love to read that!

Originally Posted by Allyson

I know from my own experience that the detailing steps and products sometimes vary depending on the make/ model vehicle. With that in mind thought I would share an old article I found on the XJ-S...

Step 1--Basic Cleaning: remove any items (trash) from Interior.

Step 2--Carpets and Mats: Remove the floor mats, the front carpets, and the foam pads under the carpets. On the convertibles, these foam pads can get wet due to leaks in the top, and they can take on a musty odor that smells like, well, an old British Car. Whether coupe or convertible, a good airing out in the sun for an afternoon (on both sides) will make them smell better. A little baking soda sprinkled on and vacuumed off will help to soak up bad odors. Don't forget to wipe down the paint on the floor boards too.

NOTE:ON MY XK "FOAM" MATS REPLACED WITH DYNAMAT.

If you have mats over your carpets, hopefully your carpets are in good shape. Start by thoroughly vacuuming them. Lay the carpeting on a flat clean surface and go over it for several minutes with the vacuum. Wait, you're still not done! Pick the carpets up and beat them against a chain link fence (preferable) or a brick wall or other flat object. There is a lot of embedded dirt in these carpets--then vacuum again. Hang them up on a clothes-line to air out in the sunshine.

If you want to really clean these well, then rent a professional steam cleaning system.Plan "B" is to use a spray-on carpet cleaner. I have had excellent results with a product in the USA called "Woolite (brand) Spray Carpet Cleaner".

Step 3- Seats, Dashboard and Interior Panels: If your home vacuum cleaner has one of those round soft bristle attachments, run it over the surfaces of the seats (especially in those crevices!) Also run it along the door panels, rear deck window ledge, along the top of the dashboard, around the instrument cluster, the steering wheel yoke, and especially into the dashboard ventilation nozzles. Don't forget the interior side panels and the storage bins in the doors. This is an important step to pick up the big surface dust before we start using any cleaners on the interior surfaces. If you leave out this step, you'll actually wash the dirt more into these surfaces. Not good!

NOTE: I USE A DAMP FOAM PAINT BRUSH TO GET INTO CREVICES.

Step 4--Cleaning the Leather: First, you have to clean the leather. There are commercial leather cleaning products on the market, and generally, they are all pretty good. However, I like to start with a clean bucket of warm water with just a little mild soap. Murphy's Oil Soap or Saddle Soap is good. Take a small light colored sponge, rinse in the solution and wring until slightly damp, and wipe down the surfaces of the seats and inside panels. Do a little portion at a time, and keep repeating until you do not see any more "black" on the sponge. DO NOT SCRUB OR RUB HARD. Just gentle little wipes in a sweeping (not circular) motion. Think of "picking off" the dirt rather than rubbing it off. When the water starts to get dirty, change water, grasshopper. Using dirty water just spreads the dirt around. Immediately wipe the surface with a soft terry cloth towel. Do not let water or moisture stand on the surface for more than a few seconds--it will dry out the leather.

Don't forget the steering wheel as this is probably the dirtiest of all, and since it's black, it hides dirt really well. Be especially careful in the "don't rub" department here. Take your time. .

Next, there are a lot of commercial leather "cleaners" on the market. I can't begin to mention all of them, but the stuff in the green bottle available from your local Jaguar dealer was formulated by Connolly in Britain. I like it. Kiwi (brand) Saddle soap isn't too bad either, and actually makes the leather softer. In any product you choose, follow the directions. Yes, I know you are cleaning these surfaces *twice*, but that's the whole idea! You can't restore the beauty of the leather until ALL of the dirt is off of it.

Step 5--Polishing the Leather (seats, side panels, and dashboard top): We are now ready to put some life back in this leather. Actually, this is a two step process. If you have ever seriously shined shoes you know the importance of preparing your surface. The leather needs to be moisturized and treated, then shined. Putting a shine on under nourished leather is a quick fix, and the effect will fade fast. You need to feed the leather first, then polish.

The dealer sells the Jaguar "Hide Food" (identical to the Connolly Hide Food). This deep moisturizes and protects the leather. Put it on liberally. If you use half to three-quarters of a container on the inside of your XJ-S, you're doing well. Goop it on with a wash rag towel, and rub into the leather in light, circular motions. Let it sit for 1-2 minutes, then wipe off with a clean terry cloth towel. Don't use dirty or wet towels. You'll need the about a half a dozen hand towels sized towels.

NOTE: I ALSO USE LEXOL CLEAN AND PROTECT BETWEEN "TREATMENTS"

Use hide food on everything! Rear parcel shelf, seats, center armrest, side panels, and especially the top of the dashboard. You can rub it in a lot harder here. This puts a wonderful sheen on your dashboard top without a lot of shiny glare back onto your windscreen, and deep moisturizes it from cracking. Don't forget the steering wheel, and also the surfaces on the sides of the transmission tunnel.

Hey, we're not done yet! You must follow all of this TLC up with Gliptone Leather Cleaner, available form British Auto USA, or see their ad in Jaguar World. I've read that some of you have not had good results with this on the list, but it has worked a small miracle on my leather. I think the secret with both Gliptone and Hide Food is don't be stingy. You have to use copious amounts of the product and let it sink in. Besides, Gliptone is what a Rolls Royce owner friend of mine says that RR recommends for its cars. Use a terry wash cloth, and clean terry towels to wipe off. Let it sit for 2-4 minutes before removing. Your leather may still be "thirsty" after the first application. If it absorbs it really fast, wipe it off, buff the surface with the towel, and re-apply. If you have ever spit shined shoes, you'll know what I mean. Also use this on ALL surfaces. It is money well spent.

Step 6--Wood Veneer: That glorious Jaguar veneer. This can be brought to a beautiful sheen with Scott's Liquid Gold. I've used spray waxes, furniture polishes, etc. and this is the best. It cleans and shines, and moisturizes the wood. If you do NOT keep your wood cleaned and moisturized, it will crack. Rub it on in small circular motions. Wipe off all residue and buff to a high shine.

Step 7--Rubber trim pieces and door jams: There are small rubber pieces in the interior, notably by the windows and the foot pedals. Use a Q-tip or your finger wrapped around a terry cloth towel and wipe these crevices several times--they will shine up beautifully! Little details like this really set off cleaning from detailing. You can clean without detailing, but you can not detail without cleaning. Spray the rubber around the door jams and wipe down. Then do it again. This rubber does have a tendency to rot or tare if not taken care of. The aluminum kick plate can be polished.

Step 8--Chrome pieces: Polish. I surprised myself in taking over 30 minutes on all these pieces. Go slowly, apply, and wipe off. Repeat if necessary. Take your time. Patience in detailing is everything. The important thing in all of these steps, is once you do a through deep cleaning and detailing the next time is a lot easier! These chrome pieces will really set off the interior.

Step 9--Glass and Instruments: Why clean the class last? Because it's probably gotten mucked up with all this dusting, spraying, and wiping you've done so far! A good glass cleaner is essential. I've used several, both foam and liquid. Clean cloth towels are essential (again). You may have to clean the glass 3-4 times before it comes "clean". This is my least favorite part. BTW, you can't really see if you've cleaned the inside adequately unless you clean the outside too. Yeah, that's right, more work! But hey, this isn't just ANY car, it's an XJ-S,and it is worth it. If you are fanatical, you'll remove the instrument cluster, and clean the inside and outside of the instrument cluster. On the instrument gauges, a *very* light spray of the silicone spray will "moisturize" the black paint on the gauges. Also spray and wipe it on all the plastic pieces around the instrument cluster.

Step 10--Vents: If you a fanatic like me, take some window cleaner and Q-tips, and clean out the vents on the dash. A quick shot of silicone spray and a wipe down with a lint free towel will make them look better than new.

OK, we made it (again). Yeah, I am a nut to have a) spent en evening writing this. b) be this maniacal in spending a whole day cleaning the inside of any car. But then again, this isn't JUST a car, it's an XJ-S. I guarantee you'll be satisfied with the results and also enjoying bonding with your Jaguar.

Some great tips. Thank You for taking the time.